Monthly Archives: May 2010

Dandy Sachs in Vogue.Com UK

Dandy Sachs the Sydney Boy

As a young boy I would flip through Vogue cover to cover and marvel at the fantasy, the fashion and the design behind it all. It was a similar experience to daydreaming. As I grew older I realised that Anna Wintour’s Vogue wasn’t the only Vogue in circulation.

Saving up my allowance to buy Vogue Italia, Vogue Paris and informative British Vogue was always a delight after a long day at school. The smell of the different perfumes being advertised and the glossy images of sylph models in couture so well constructed was a refuge from the harsh grit of growing up in the suburbs.

As most of you know I attended my first Rosemount Australian Fashion Week as a registered delegate this year. It was quite an experience. A definite highlight was being asked to be photographed for various streetstyle blogs but the cherry on the fashion cake was being photographed for Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue.Com UK.

Being a fashion assistant it takes a while to be immortalised in the industry. I am nowhere near that point yet. I am still fresh and I am still learning but to be asked and then photographed for British Vogue’s website…what an honour. You won’t be able to wipe the smile off this face any time soon.

You can see the image on the Press page.
And to view the full gallery click here: http://www.vogue.co.uk/news/fashion/street-trends/100510-jessica-cao–australian-fashion-we.aspx

I was photographed by the lovely Emma Bergmeier of Dropstitch

Above image courtesy of Dropstich and Emma Bergmeier

Genesis M.

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Meggings Are Dandy

I’m a fashion assistant not a fashion victim. However there has been a quiet trend I’ve been watching for a while now and have only been feeling courageous enough to wear it recently. Meggings (leggings for men) are what I’m talking about. Seen on the runway boys of Milan and Tokyo. The momentum has been slow but now this rainy, wet and quite cold Sydney winter has caused me to push the fashion forward.

If you have seen my RAFW Day One happy snaps you would have noticed I was wearing meggings. I thought Fashion Week would be the best time to test the leggings for men water and right I was. Within two days other boys were wearing ‘meggings’.

In all honesty this has not been a decision I’ve made on my own, a lot of it weighs on the fact that I was inspired by fellow fashion blogger/model Simon N and the following images.

Simon N and Spiderweb Meggings

Simon N in Gina Tricot Leggings

I’ve been looking around in my iPhoto application for a decent photo of me in meggings but I haven’t come across any. And plus I have only ever worn meggings three times now. I promise to wear them more and get happy snapped. They are quite a liberating new winter feature in my wardrobe

And I won’t be wearing just any sort of meggings…I want A.Concept meggings as seen here:

Meggings at A.Concept by Anthony Capon

Images courtesy of Simon N.
Genesis M.

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“Incubus of Viral Plague”

Emily as the Incubus of Viral Plague

Yesterday I was back in fashion assistant mode. I had clothing returns to do. I’m always eager for returns as it usually means I’m travelling all over Sydney to the different showrooms. I was returning some pieces from Oxford‘s new collection; utility chic and workwear pieces that we used for a shoot a while ago to their showroom in Alexandria. The return also had to be straight after I finished at my non-fashion job. Everything was going well and I was on task when it must have been the cold or the slight drizzle that got me but by the time I got to my Sam’s house I was feeling ill. I stayed the night at his recommendation and woke up feeling like Emily from The Devil Wears Prada, an incubus of viral plague.

I haven’t confirmed whether it is just a cold, or the lack of sleep, as I have been so busy over the past two weeks, and the lack of sleep has finally caught up to me. Maybe its fashion fever? I have to say though that this is the worst thing that can happen to me at the moment. A fashion assistant can’t be sick! There are fashion projects just around the corner. Luckily Lenya is nothing like Miranda and will let me get some rest. Something I desperately need.

For now I’m going to slip into my warm Peter Alexander pyjamas and Bonds socks and sleep.

Genesis M.
P.S Real fashion assistants get sick

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Fantastic Plastic

A work of art and fashion herself Barbie has been inspiring young minds for decades. So of course it was only fashionable for a fashion assistant to be at the opening of an exhibition dedicated to the most stylish doll of dolls. Barbie also has a personal symbolism for me as a ‘fashion person’. She was perhaps the first model I dressed, the first ‘person’ I ‘styled’ and I remember the joy that filled me arranging the different clothes she came with.

“Celebrate with Barbie” is an exhibition of images put together by fashion photographer Markus Van Driel and my boss Lenya Jones.

From the photographer himself: “I love the reaction that people have had to this shoot. Some have described the work as engaging, sophisticated and touching. Others see it as a bit tongue in cheek. One critique even thought I was making a statement on the superficiality of fashion – an interesting interpretation especially with the exhibition showing so close to fashion week.”.

The exhibition “Celebrate with Barbie” will run from May 13th – May 27th at Gallery Medium – Level 2, 85 William Street, East Sydney. Exhibition hours are Mon – Fri 10am – 6pm

With Lenya at the Exhibition

Dandy Sachs wears:
Blazer from Essential Man
Shirt from Perspective @ Minty Meets Munt
Jeans by Lee Licks
Shoes by Zu
Man Clutch from Marithé + François Girbaud

Genesis M.

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Showbiz Dandy

On Set at the "Grey Zone" Production

It’s all work and no play for Dandy Sachs the fashion assistant. Fashion Week wasn’t even over and I had already signed myself over to another project, this time a pan to the left from fashion. The silver screen. One thing you need to know and have in your mind when your a fashion assistant is the fact that you are not always going to be an assistant. And sometimes you have to push this initiative on your own.

Emulating my boss Lenya who is also a Wardrobe Supervisor on films and television I agreed to do wardrobe for a Sydney Film School student film. Some of you may be wondering whether or not I have the sufficient experience and knowledge base to do this. To those who doubt me, yes I do. I am well versed in fashion and trends as well as having worked on a major Hollywood feature as assistant costume designer last summer.

About to Roll

I won’t be giving away too much but the short film is called “Grey Zone” and deals with a rather dark subject matter. The director gave me a very strict colour palette and it was a learning curve for me. As a fashion person I crave for pop block colours and accentuated silhouettes however the nature of the film and the director’s vision required me to look through very different eyes. Milky hues and tones in grey, blue, yellow and camel had to shape the awkward, the annoying and the eerily silent characters. Noir being reserved for the heroine and the antagonist of the film.

Shooting has been quite hectic and I’m always on my toes in regards to wardrobe continuity as this has been my blunder in the past but I’m pretty confident in the skills that I have built up over the few months since that mistake. It’s quite thrilling being in the pole position but it also has its cons. And working in film is not as glamourous as Hollywood makes it out to be. The hours are draining and you are constantly hungry. Not on this set though, plenty of carbs to go around (none for me though…joke).

Doing projects like this are important lessons in the industry and from this I have learned that maybe I have to mute my fashion eye for my ‘film wardrobe’ eye when doing films. But then situations like the characters looking off-trend and dated (when not constituted in the script) occur and I am left pondering. I want this film to have a cultural relevance if it is to be ‘real’ and I believe that wardrobe plays an important part in this.

I will update everyone when it is complete and when I can get access to stills. Look for future behind the scenes pictures coming to the Gallery page soon.

Genesis M

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Clear The Runway

Rosemount Australian Fashion Week – Day Five

Miss Unkon Girls before the Show

What? What? What happened to day four? The answer is simple: I’m not always a fashion assistant and in some parallel universe I am a third year and graduating art school student. To read about RAFW Day Four have a look at Lenya’s coverage at RAFW 2010 Day Four.

It was the final day to wear those chunky gladiator heels or those delicious Alexander Wang’s because when the last face at Ksubi exited it would be time to hang up one’s heels (and many-a-feet would be relieved). In contrast to the harsh noir of the many gladiator heels click-clopping around the Overseas Passenger Terminal, my final day of RAFW started off with a cerulean morning of soaking in the autumn (fall) sun set against the architectural backdrop of the Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Opera house. And getting snapped for a few street style blogs, the most notable being Harper’s Bazaar online (click the Press section to see the photo). It was going to be a long but satisfying end to a runway long week.

Expectations were thrown into the harbour in regards to my first show, Miss Unkon. An innocent air of sorbet and confectionery coloured femininity manifested in the garments which she sent down the runway. The clothes were that of little girls who played amongst hopscotches, flower-covered swings and imaginative mobiles but the clothes weren’t childrenswear instead they were grown up. I enjoyed this immensely and the experience of sitting front row again was icing on the fashion cake (carb and fat free).

Fiery Feminine @ Miss Unkon

Although having been sent an invite to see Khrysalis Couture show at the New Generation show I was refused a seat and given general admission. This was slightly disheartening and was a cue for Lenya, Angelika and I to have lunch. And lunch we did. We returned to find out that the New Generation show was causing organisational nightmares and was running an hour late (this is often the case at Fashion Week) which meant the last show we were supposed to attend was going to be delayed. So, we sat it out in the early afternoon sun for a little bit more and just took some happy snaps among ourselves.

Finally, they were letting people into Annah Stretton, a New Zealand based designer. Here we sat second row and again our expectations were thrown into the harbour. Being inspired by the sex symbol Brigette Bardot there was a French frivolity to the show and this was obvious when the models came out. In their walks and struts was a sense of fun. Definitely a mood lifter as it was the second last show of the day and the fashion pack were on their last energy reserves. French stripes, hoop skirts, sheer fabric and draping were given a oopmh of Bardot sex appeal and joviality. The closing walk clearly was to give a last minute energy boost to inspire us fashionistas to make our ways to the numerous Fashion Week after parties.

Annah Stretton SS10/11

After watching her walk in a few shows and being utterly impressed I bumped into model Rachel Rutt on my way home from Circular Quay. Being the brave assistant as always, I asked for a picture and she was civil enough to attend to this fashion assistant’s little squeal. All was good until the photo was taken; I reviewed the picture and I looked foolish standing next to this sylphlike model. My spirits were crushed and I guess she was in a rush since she left my side and I wasn’t able to ask her to take the photo again (do I even have the nerve?). What was most disheartening is when she and her model friend left, sniggering.

An awful end to Fashion Week but it was a reiteration of what I learnt about the industry throughout the week. To survive in the industry you have to grow thick skin, thicker than the saltwater crocodile leather they use in a Birkin.

You’ll find the happy snaps where they usually are.

Final Day’s Wear – Dandy Sachs UBETTAWERQ!

Shirt – Gulongdu Homme
Leather Vest – Vintage
Skinny Tie – Vintage
Dress Shorts – Raf Simons
Sunglasses – Le Specs
Shoes – Windsor Smith
Bag – Mulberry

Dandy Sachs at his Best

Genesis M.

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Let’s Play Fashion Chess

Rosemount Australian Fashion Week – Day Three

Moonlight Knight @ Anthony Capon's A.Concept

Trying to subvert the sea of black fashion present at RAFW, Angelika, Lenya and I decided that we as a trinity would have a theme for the third day of shows. As you can probably ratiocinate from the title of the post we chose the chessboard as our inspiration. Noir et blanc. Black and white in non-fashion snooty terms. It was a wise move as both Angelika and I were snapped for British Vogue. I was that thrilled I almost jumped into Sydney Harbour. An assistant featured in British Vogue, have you ever heard of such a thing?

Maybe not but now its a first. Our first fashion move of the day was the Return of the Queen, Alice McCall and what a comeback it was. Alice McCall sent down the runway beautiful ocean blues which met canary yellows framed in titanium white. This eye-pleasing palette seen across in the dresses, prints and jumpsuits. It was no wonder that her check-mate worthy comeback collection garnered explosive applause. Lenya was so happy with the collection that she wants to own almost every piece and we got to go backstage. And it was at Alice McCall that I started to notice the en passant resurgence of White.

After a stalemate of minutes between shows, I got into general admission at Bianca Spender, a label which I love as I envision adorning my sister in Bianca Spender garments. White took on a James Cameron’s Avatar influence for Bianca Spender which featured a very democratic runway and ‘front row’. The models were reminiscent of Pandora’s angelic goddesses in flowing white summer evening dresses with trains, drapey jumpsuits and tailored but billowing jackets. Here again I noticed that certain colours like white (technically not), canary yellow, lapis lazuli and ocean blue were on the forefront of this coming summer’s trend. Lenya always points out that what you must look out for in a show is the avant-garde, the new trend. And as an assistant its been hard because I’ve been falling into the trap of only looking at what embraces my sense of style BUT I am getting better.

The White Avatar @ Bianca Spender

The next move was to go upstairs for the Men’s and Women’s Ready-to-Wear show and at this point I had thought White was ahead. Was I slightly mistaken? Yes! Black upped its arsenal at A.Concept where Anthony Capon sent down the runway heavy noirs that evoked Anubis and the Egyptian Book of Life and where golds and whites were sent into the Afterlife in one or two pieces. Humility Couture represented the literal death of Fashion in haunting grim-reaper black T-shirts while Malwai pushed White into its tints; robin eggshell blue, mute lavenders and misty grays. The Ready to Wear show saw Black and White give way to a new player on this coming season’s board…tint colours.

Speaking of colours; it was checkmate for Black and White at the final show of the day, Romance Was Born. Evoking the Renaissance of Florence and Dinosaurs, designers Anna Plunkett and Luke Sales showed how colour reigns supreme on the fashion chessboard. It is always such an amazing experience to be surrounded by their vision. Unfortunately in my line of work and the styling we do means RWB is not something we can shoot. However the Australian Queens of Fashion; Vogue Australia’s editor-in-chief Kirstie Clements and Marie Claire Australia’s Jackie Frank were still there. As well as the Knights of fashion like Phil Oh from Street Peeper and the pawns of fashion like myself.

Renaissance Dinosaur @ Romance Was Born

And what you all have probably been wondering, how did I turn my outfit into a fashion chessboard?

Skivvy – M66
Crane Origami Waistcoat – Spy Henry Lau
School Boy Shorts – Neil Barrett
Cuff  – from Thailand
Neckerchief – Jones NY
Bag – Mulberry
Shoes – Vintage
Pieces provided by Sam Lim

White versus Black - Fashion Chess

Genesis M.

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