Let’s Play Fashion Chess

Rosemount Australian Fashion Week – Day Three

Moonlight Knight @ Anthony Capon's A.Concept

Trying to subvert the sea of black fashion present at RAFW, Angelika, Lenya and I decided that we as a trinity would have a theme for the third day of shows. As you can probably ratiocinate from the title of the post we chose the chessboard as our inspiration. Noir et blanc. Black and white in non-fashion snooty terms. It was a wise move as both Angelika and I were snapped for British Vogue. I was that thrilled I almost jumped into Sydney Harbour. An assistant featured in British Vogue, have you ever heard of such a thing?

Maybe not but now its a first. Our first fashion move of the day was the Return of the Queen, Alice McCall and what a comeback it was. Alice McCall sent down the runway beautiful ocean blues which met canary yellows framed in titanium white. This eye-pleasing palette seen across in the dresses, prints and jumpsuits. It was no wonder that her check-mate worthy comeback collection garnered explosive applause. Lenya was so happy with the collection that she wants to own almost every piece and we got to go backstage. And it was at Alice McCall that I started to notice the en passant resurgence of White.

After a stalemate of minutes between shows, I got into general admission at Bianca Spender, a label which I love as I envision adorning my sister in Bianca Spender garments. White took on a James Cameron’s Avatar influence for Bianca Spender which featured a very democratic runway and ‘front row’. The models were reminiscent of Pandora’s angelic goddesses in flowing white summer evening dresses with trains, drapey jumpsuits and tailored but billowing jackets. Here again I noticed that certain colours like white (technically not), canary yellow, lapis lazuli and ocean blue were on the forefront of this coming summer’s trend. Lenya always points out that what you must look out for in a show is the avant-garde, the new trend. And as an assistant its been hard because I’ve been falling into the trap of only looking at what embraces my sense of style BUT I am getting better.

The White Avatar @ Bianca Spender

The next move was to go upstairs for the Men’s and Women’s Ready-to-Wear show and at this point I had thought White was ahead. Was I slightly mistaken? Yes! Black upped its arsenal at A.Concept where Anthony Capon sent down the runway heavy noirs that evoked Anubis and the Egyptian Book of Life and where golds and whites were sent into the Afterlife in one or two pieces. Humility Couture represented the literal death of Fashion in haunting grim-reaper black T-shirts while Malwai pushed White into its tints; robin eggshell blue, mute lavenders and misty grays. The Ready to Wear show saw Black and White give way to a new player on this coming season’s board…tint colours.

Speaking of colours; it was checkmate for Black and White at the final show of the day, Romance Was Born. Evoking the Renaissance of Florence and Dinosaurs, designers Anna Plunkett and Luke Sales showed how colour reigns supreme on the fashion chessboard. It is always such an amazing experience to be surrounded by their vision. Unfortunately in my line of work and the styling we do means RWB is not something we can shoot. However the Australian Queens of Fashion; Vogue Australia’s editor-in-chief Kirstie Clements and Marie Claire Australia’s Jackie Frank were still there. As well as the Knights of fashion like Phil Oh from Street Peeper and the pawns of fashion like myself.

Renaissance Dinosaur @ Romance Was Born

And what you all have probably been wondering, how did I turn my outfit into a fashion chessboard?

Skivvy – M66
Crane Origami Waistcoat – Spy Henry Lau
School Boy Shorts – Neil Barrett
Cuff  – from Thailand
Neckerchief – Jones NY
Bag – Mulberry
Shoes – Vintage
Pieces provided by Sam Lim

White versus Black - Fashion Chess

Genesis M.


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